Fall ready to wear 2021/
How we’ll dress to “reemerge” has inspired an excellent debate among designers, retailers, and fashion obsessives. One faction predicts a return to sexy, decorative, audacious clothes, the type that demand an audience; the opposite maintains that we’ll never hand over the comfort and security of our year-long loungewear binge. Both extremes are just that: extreme. Intuitive, rational designers like Natalie Ratabesi know it will likely be a mix: Some days, she just wants to slide into a beaded gown and five-inch heels again, et al. she’s content in her new uniform of blazers and vintage Champion sweats. Her fall 2021 collection for TRÉ reflected both impulses, with plunging cutout bodysuits at one end and snuggly sherpa hoodies on the opposite.
The surprising word Ratabesi wont to describe it all was “humble.” She’s spent the past year meditating on fashion’s purpose, its future, and most significantly , what her customer actually needs immediately . the solution was radically simple: less. Less clothing, less fashion, less pressure. the thought of making an enormous collection only for the sake of it—likely with clothes TRÉ’s customer wouldn’t be ready to wear—didn’t feel right. Instead, Ratabesi bogged down and refocused on what’s “essential,” not within the manner of T-shirts and jeans, but pieces you’ll wear and treasure.
If that seems like a recipe for minimalism, look no further than the denim chaps and intricately cutout bodysuits. the autumn 2021 collection is made on clothes which will do more and work harder: The chaps were styled solo (for the truly daring!) or layered on top of other jeans, while the aforementioned sherpa hoodie fully reversed to green nylon. An XXL shearling vest was similarly double-sided, and a couple of of the bodysuits had attached balaclavas that would be worn like hoods. Over Zoom, Ratabesi said they’re made from a super-plush, chenille-like fabric—not the standard micro-rib or stretchy jersey. They’re little question among the season’s most luxurious underpinnings; Ratabesi called them “made-in-Italy bodysuits.”
Ratabesi is never without a blazer, even in our work-from-home days, but fall’s hero jacket was a softer, roomier silk bomber. A glossy fuchsia version was dyed darker at the sides to seem worn-in, while another came in baby pink and flipped to army green. the combination of a snug , cocooning silhouette, refined fabric, and luscious color summed up precisely how Ratabesi wants to seem and feel: polished and new, but comfortable.
Valentin Yudashkin launched his fashion label within the Soviet Union . Though materials were far less abundant than they’re in present-day Russia, Yudashkin made a world name for himself together with his limited resources, even catching the attention of the late Pierre Cardin. The practice of thinking beyond what’s available was one among themes of Yudashkin’s new fall collection, which focused on spaceflight , Cardin himself, and therefore the narrative of a girl mill-hand who studies in the dark to become a dressmaker .
As usual, Yudashkin focused on silhouettes and technique. His supersharp blazers and double-breasted jackets were no fuss and impeccably cut. Regarding these masculine touches, he said he was thinking of his young protagonist reworking pieces from her father’s wardrobe. One cool example was a retooled white shirt that seemed to be worn in reverse with an exaggerated collar. Cardin and his space-age ’60s sensibility were the inspirations behind the collection’s trendy accessory: the balaclava. during a few instances, but especially when it had been worn with an extended black dress with bell sleeves, the optic white headgear evoked an otherworldly, even holy feeling.
Despite everything, Mira Mikati has managed to squeeze in a bit of travel, and if the splashy, offbeat location for this look book hadn’t already existed, she might well have gone ahead and created it herself. “I wanted to be anywhere but home, glamping, camping, being in the wilderness, partying, and getting back to a world where social distancing is a thing of the past,” she said from her showroom in London.